Eggs Pontchartrain
8 English muffins, split
16 slices bacon
32 oysters, shucked
16 ounces buttermilk
Flour and cornmeal for breading
Creole seasoning
Oil for deep-frying
16 poached eggs
Finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Tasso Hollandaise sauce
6 egg yolks
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dashes of Tabasco sauce, to taste
2 tablespoons water
3 sticks (12 ounces) butter, melted and clarified, held warm
8 ounces tasso ham, finely chopped, rendered, drippings reserved
Cook the bacon (it's easiest on a sheet pan in the oven) until crisp. Reserve the drippings for another use. Break each slice in half.
Butter the muffins and toast in a regular or toaster oven; keep warm.
Poach the eggs in barely simmering water to which a couple of teaspoons of vinegar have been added, until desired doneness (I like runny yolks, mmmm.) You can hold in a pan and refresh with hot water before serving.
Soak the oysters in buttermilk for a few minutes, then roll in a mixture of half flour and half cornmeal that has been seasoned with Creole seasoning, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Shake the oysters in a sieve to get rid of excess breading, then drop into hot oil at 360°F; fry until golden brown. Season with a little more salt and Creole seasoning as soon as they come out of the oil; drain on paper towels and keep warm.
For the tasso Hollandaise: In a stainless steel bowl set over a pot of simmering water over medium heat, whisk the egg yolks with the lemon juice, salt, Tabasco, and water until pale yellow and slightly thick and ribbony. (The old test -- you should be able to "blow a rose" on the surface.) Never let the bowl touch the water, and never let the water boil. Off the heat, drizzle the clarified butter into the egg yolks in a thin stream, whisking like hell all the while, until it's incorporated. Add the tasso and drippings and continue whisking for 30 seconds. Serve immediately or hold in a Thermos to keep warm.
Assembly: Place two muffin halves on each warmed plate. Top each muffin half with two half-slices of bacon and two fried oysters. Top each bacon-oyster muffin with a poached egg. Top with liberal amounts of tasso Hollandaise. Garnish with a bit of parsley and serve.
YIELD: 8 decadent brunch servings.

